Terms of Sale and Miscellaneous Information
When and how you bid is, of course, completely up to you. Despite the lure
of "sniping", I don't recommend it. I've had too many customers lose out
because they tried to bid in the last minute and couldn't get their bid
processed in time. My recommendation is to either bid your top bid
immediately, or put in a low bid initially, so that you can track the lot
down by doing a bidder search; and then put in a bid sometime in the last 24
hours (that's what I do). Or, just bookmark the lot when you see it and
come back and bid in the last 24 hours. Of course, many of you may do your
searching in the lots closing that day--in that case, I recommend bidding
when you see the item, as you may not get another chance!
Don't get me wrong--I like the possibility of getting bargains as well--but
it doesn't always work. I always think it's better to pay what I'm willing
to pay and get the lot rather than to try and get a bargain and lose.
Missing out at the last minute because you can't get your bid processed only
hurts both of us, so don't do it! :)
If you are bidding on several of my auctions, I will be happy to combine
everything as one transaction in order to save postage. Just let me know
that you are planning on doing this, and when you expect to be ready to
transact, so I can try to remember to contact you when everything is ready
to go.
I expect payment in full, in advance, for all items. This includes postage--I will NOT ship your lot if you do not include postage as requested.
For my repeat
customers, shipment on payment is more an accounting move on my part than anything else. I
take checks, money orders, cash, and for payments under $5 or for odd
amounts in combination with cash, mint US postage at face value. If you
send cash, you do so at your risk. If you are a first-time customer, or the
item is relatively expensive, or if you have a low feedback rating, I may
request that you pay by postal money order. Please don't be offended. I'm
just protecting the transaction. I also reserve the right to clear checks
at my sole discretion, though I rarely do this.
It helps me tremendously if you put the eBay number or item number, or a short description of what you are buying, in with your payment. It also helps if you include your email address. It saves me the trouble of trying to figure out who you are and what you want.
I charge only actual postage for my items, unless I need to use special packaging. My normal packing for stamps and covers is to use a
thin cardboard stiffener-generally two thicknesses of priority-mail-envelope
cardboard. I find that this, combined with marking the envelopes "do not
bend" works just fine almost all of the time. If you'd like thicker
cardboard, or a padded envelope, just let me know. I will charge actual
cost for extra packing materials beyond my normal method.
Postage quotes in my lot descriptions are based on first class rates in the
United States. IF YOU ARE OUTSIDE OF THE UNITED STATES YOU NEED TO TELL ME
SO THAT I CAN CHARGE APPROPRIATE POSTAGE. I recommend insured postage for anything over $20.00,
though whether to take insurance is your choice. I do not, however, take responsibility for uninsured items lost in the mail, though this is very rare. I will also be happy to send
priority instead of first class if you want it, so long as you're willing to
pay the extra postage. I use the United States Postal Service exclusively.
I do my best to send items as quickly as possible after receipt of payment.
Given my work schedule, however, this may sometimes be several days, especially when items need to be handed over a post office counter
(insured mail, lots over one pound, etc.) Saturday mornings are virtually always set aside for eBay catch-up, so mailings go out a bare minimum of once a week, and usually more often. Please be patient-I will get the
lot out as soon as possible!